Uses a BLENDER! And promises to be really easy.
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
We agree with Julia Child: every good cook should know how to make all the proper sauces—including the often intimidating hollandaise—from scratch. But let's get real. When you're making hollandaise the traditional way, there's always the chance that the sauce will curdle. And if you've got a hungry crowd waiting for brunch, this may be the right occasion for a legitimate shortcut. We found her method, which she says is "within the capabilities of an 8-year-old child", to be nearly failproof and the resulting sauce just a little lighter. This shortcut is adapted from Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume I (Knopf, 1961).
1/2 lb. unsalted butter
6 egg yolks
4–6 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground white pepper
1. Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat until it begins to foam, 15–20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, put egg yolks, lemon juice, salt, and pepper into the jar of an electric blender. Cover, and blend on high speed for 2 seconds; then, with the motor still running, gradually add melted butter in a slow, steady stream through hole in blender lid, leaving milky solids behind. Adjust seasonings.
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Beurre blanc [for Lobster Soufflé]
MAKES ABOUT 1 1⁄2 CUPS
Butter is essentially a smooth mixture of fat and water. The secret to making beurre blanc is to preserve its makeup by allowing each addition of butter to melt smoothly into the sauce, as you whisk it, before adding the next piece of butter. Also, never let the sauce come to a boil once the butter is added; that will cause it to separate. Some restaurant cooks add a little heavy cream to the wine reduction before whisking in the butter, to ensure a smooth and stable sauce. This recipe is based on one in Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, and Simone Beck (Knopf, 1977).
3 sticks cold unsalted butter (24 tbsp.),
cut into chunks
1⁄4 cup dry white wine
1⁄4 cup white wine vinegar
1 tbsp. minced shallots
1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt
Pinch of white pepper
1⁄2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1. Have butter ready. Bring wine and vinegar to a boil in a saucepan; add shallots, salt, and pepper. Lower heat to a simmer; cook until most of the liquid has evaporated. (There should be about 1 1⁄2 tbsp. liquid left. If reduced too far, add 1 tbsp. water to remoisten.)
2. Remove pan from heat; whisk 2 pieces of butter into the reduction. Set pan over low heat and continue whisking butter into sauce a chunk at a time, allowing each piece to melt into sauce before adding more.
3. Remove sauce from heat; whisk in lemon juice. Taste and adjust seasoning, then strain through a fine sieve into a bowl. Serve with fish, poultry, or vegetables.
Butter is essentially a smooth mixture of fat and water. The secret to making beurre blanc is to preserve its makeup by allowing each addition of butter to melt smoothly into the sauce, as you whisk it, before adding the next piece of butter. Also, never let the sauce come to a boil once the butter is added; that will cause it to separate. Some restaurant cooks add a little heavy cream to the wine reduction before whisking in the butter, to ensure a smooth and stable sauce. This recipe is based on one in Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle, and Simone Beck (Knopf, 1977).
3 sticks cold unsalted butter (24 tbsp.),
cut into chunks
1⁄4 cup dry white wine
1⁄4 cup white wine vinegar
1 tbsp. minced shallots
1⁄4 tsp. kosher salt
Pinch of white pepper
1⁄2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1. Have butter ready. Bring wine and vinegar to a boil in a saucepan; add shallots, salt, and pepper. Lower heat to a simmer; cook until most of the liquid has evaporated. (There should be about 1 1⁄2 tbsp. liquid left. If reduced too far, add 1 tbsp. water to remoisten.)
2. Remove pan from heat; whisk 2 pieces of butter into the reduction. Set pan over low heat and continue whisking butter into sauce a chunk at a time, allowing each piece to melt into sauce before adding more.
3. Remove sauce from heat; whisk in lemon juice. Taste and adjust seasoning, then strain through a fine sieve into a bowl. Serve with fish, poultry, or vegetables.
Lobster Soufflé
Again, from Julia Child. Click on the title of this entry for a link to the video!
JULIA CHILD’S CLASSIC CHEESE SOUFFLE
With Variations
MASTER RECIPE
This is the classic version of a cheese soufflé, adapted from Julia Child’s recipe in her book, The Way to Cook (Knopf).
SERVES 6
2 tablespoons, finely grated Parmesan cheese (or other hard cheese)
2 1/2 tablespoons, butter
3 tablespoons, flour
1 cup, hot milk
1/2 teaspoon, paprika
1/8 teaspoon, fresh-ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon, salt
1/4 teaspoon, fresh ground pepper (white, if you don’t like to see dark “specs”)
4 egg yolks
5 egg whites
1 cup (about 3 1/2 ounces), coarsely grated Swiss cheese
Prepare the dish: Butter the interior of a straight-sided, 1 quart baking dish (7-8 inches in diameter). Roll the grated Parmesan cheese around the dish to coat the bottom and sides.
Make a “collar” (so the soufflé can rise high above the dish). [COOK’S NOTE: If you prefer not to use a collar, simply use a slightly larger dish, so the soufflé will not rise as high and cannot spill over in baking.]. To make a collar, fold a piece of aluminum foil in half, and wrap the sheet around the circumference of the baking dish. The strip should encircle the dish, and stand about three inches taller than the top of the dish. Butter the inside of the foil strip, and secure the strip closed around the dish using a pin or paper clip.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Set the oven rack just below the center of the oven.
Make the soufflé base: In a saucepan, melt the butter and stir in the flour. Cook for two minutes over moderate heat – do not allow the mixture to brown. Gradually add the milk, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Stir and cook slowly (mixture will boil gently) for 3 minutes – it will be very thick. Whisk in the seasonings and remove from heat. One by one, whisk in the egg yolks.
Beat the egg whites: In a clean mixing bowl, using a balloon whisk or an electric beater, beat the (room temperature) egg whites until stiff and shiny. The whites will form peaks when the beater is lifted. Do not overbeat – when the peaks form as described, stop beating.
Finish the soufflé mixture: Scoop about one quarter of the beaten egg whites onto the top of the base mixture, and gently stir the whites into the base. Turn the remaining beaten egg whites onto the sauce and carefully fold them into the base mixture [COOK’S NOTE: see the description of “folding” in the Glossary of Terms located at the top of the Teaching Segments page on this site – menu at left – if you need more explanation of this technique.] alternating scoops of the spatula with sprinkles of the grated Swiss cheese. [Adding the cheese this way, instead of into the white sauce base, makes a lighter result.] Spoon the soufflé mixture gently into the prepared dish.
Bake the soufflé: Set the soufflé in the preheated oven, and immediately turn the heat down to 375 degrees. Bake until the soufflé has puffed 2 to 3 inches over the rim of the baking dish, into the collar, and the top has browned nicely - about 25-30 minutes..
COOK’S NOTE ABOUT HOW TO DETERMINE DONENESS:
A soufflé baked in a dish should puff 2 to 3 inches over the rim, and the top should be nicely browned. The puff should hold up when you release the collar just a little bit to check – if the puff sags, rapidly refasten the collar and bake a few minutes more. If you want the puff to hold and the soufflé to stand a reasonable time, test it by plunging a skewer down into the side of the puff: if wet particles cling to it the soufflé will be creamy inside and will not hold as long as if the skewer comes out almost clean. The fateful decision is up to you.
Serve the soufflé: Remove the finished soufflé from the oven, very carefully unfasten and remove the collar, and bring the soufflé to the table. Hold the serving fork and spoon upright and back-to-back, so the soufflé may be “torn” apart as they are plunged into the center, and will not deflate much as it is served.
Variations:
Spinach or Broccoli Soufflé
After completing the white sauce, stir in 1/4 to 1/3 cup of cooked chopped fresh spinach or broccoli that you have warmed in butter, with shallots and seasonings. Cut down on the grated Swiss cheese – 1/3 to 1/2 cup should be enough.
Crab, Lobster, or Shrimp Soufflé
Substitute chopped or finely diced shellfish for the vegetables in the preceding suggestion. A hollandaise sauce or a white butter sauce (beurre blanc) with tomato fondue would be attractive accompaniments.
Salmon Soufflé
Stir flaked cooked salmon or other fish, or canned salmon, into the finished white sauce. Two or three tablespoons of shallots sautéed in butter are often helpful for fish other than salmon, as well as a spoonful or two of minced fresh dill or parsley. In some instances you may wish to accompany the soufflé with a lightly cooked fresh tomato sauce, or a colorful pipérade (sautéed onions with strips of red and green peppers).
Spectacular (Easy) Presentation: Soufflé on a Platter
A soufflé does not have to be baked in a dish. Try baking it on a platter instead. Arrange mounds of creamed lobster, or crab, or poached eggs on butter-sautéed croutons, on a buttered baking and serving platter. Divide the cheese soufflé mixture in mounds over each, top with a sprinkling of grated Swiss cheese, and bake 15 minutes or so in a 425 degree oven. The mounded soufflés will puff to double and brown on top.
JULIA CHILD’S CLASSIC CHEESE SOUFFLE
With Variations
MASTER RECIPE
This is the classic version of a cheese soufflé, adapted from Julia Child’s recipe in her book, The Way to Cook (Knopf).
SERVES 6
2 tablespoons, finely grated Parmesan cheese (or other hard cheese)
2 1/2 tablespoons, butter
3 tablespoons, flour
1 cup, hot milk
1/2 teaspoon, paprika
1/8 teaspoon, fresh-ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon, salt
1/4 teaspoon, fresh ground pepper (white, if you don’t like to see dark “specs”)
4 egg yolks
5 egg whites
1 cup (about 3 1/2 ounces), coarsely grated Swiss cheese
Prepare the dish: Butter the interior of a straight-sided, 1 quart baking dish (7-8 inches in diameter). Roll the grated Parmesan cheese around the dish to coat the bottom and sides.
Make a “collar” (so the soufflé can rise high above the dish). [COOK’S NOTE: If you prefer not to use a collar, simply use a slightly larger dish, so the soufflé will not rise as high and cannot spill over in baking.]. To make a collar, fold a piece of aluminum foil in half, and wrap the sheet around the circumference of the baking dish. The strip should encircle the dish, and stand about three inches taller than the top of the dish. Butter the inside of the foil strip, and secure the strip closed around the dish using a pin or paper clip.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Set the oven rack just below the center of the oven.
Make the soufflé base: In a saucepan, melt the butter and stir in the flour. Cook for two minutes over moderate heat – do not allow the mixture to brown. Gradually add the milk, whisking constantly to prevent lumps. Stir and cook slowly (mixture will boil gently) for 3 minutes – it will be very thick. Whisk in the seasonings and remove from heat. One by one, whisk in the egg yolks.
Beat the egg whites: In a clean mixing bowl, using a balloon whisk or an electric beater, beat the (room temperature) egg whites until stiff and shiny. The whites will form peaks when the beater is lifted. Do not overbeat – when the peaks form as described, stop beating.
Finish the soufflé mixture: Scoop about one quarter of the beaten egg whites onto the top of the base mixture, and gently stir the whites into the base. Turn the remaining beaten egg whites onto the sauce and carefully fold them into the base mixture [COOK’S NOTE: see the description of “folding” in the Glossary of Terms located at the top of the Teaching Segments page on this site – menu at left – if you need more explanation of this technique.] alternating scoops of the spatula with sprinkles of the grated Swiss cheese. [Adding the cheese this way, instead of into the white sauce base, makes a lighter result.] Spoon the soufflé mixture gently into the prepared dish.
Bake the soufflé: Set the soufflé in the preheated oven, and immediately turn the heat down to 375 degrees. Bake until the soufflé has puffed 2 to 3 inches over the rim of the baking dish, into the collar, and the top has browned nicely - about 25-30 minutes..
COOK’S NOTE ABOUT HOW TO DETERMINE DONENESS:
A soufflé baked in a dish should puff 2 to 3 inches over the rim, and the top should be nicely browned. The puff should hold up when you release the collar just a little bit to check – if the puff sags, rapidly refasten the collar and bake a few minutes more. If you want the puff to hold and the soufflé to stand a reasonable time, test it by plunging a skewer down into the side of the puff: if wet particles cling to it the soufflé will be creamy inside and will not hold as long as if the skewer comes out almost clean. The fateful decision is up to you.
Serve the soufflé: Remove the finished soufflé from the oven, very carefully unfasten and remove the collar, and bring the soufflé to the table. Hold the serving fork and spoon upright and back-to-back, so the soufflé may be “torn” apart as they are plunged into the center, and will not deflate much as it is served.
Variations:
Spinach or Broccoli Soufflé
After completing the white sauce, stir in 1/4 to 1/3 cup of cooked chopped fresh spinach or broccoli that you have warmed in butter, with shallots and seasonings. Cut down on the grated Swiss cheese – 1/3 to 1/2 cup should be enough.
Crab, Lobster, or Shrimp Soufflé
Substitute chopped or finely diced shellfish for the vegetables in the preceding suggestion. A hollandaise sauce or a white butter sauce (beurre blanc) with tomato fondue would be attractive accompaniments.
Salmon Soufflé
Stir flaked cooked salmon or other fish, or canned salmon, into the finished white sauce. Two or three tablespoons of shallots sautéed in butter are often helpful for fish other than salmon, as well as a spoonful or two of minced fresh dill or parsley. In some instances you may wish to accompany the soufflé with a lightly cooked fresh tomato sauce, or a colorful pipérade (sautéed onions with strips of red and green peppers).
Spectacular (Easy) Presentation: Soufflé on a Platter
A soufflé does not have to be baked in a dish. Try baking it on a platter instead. Arrange mounds of creamed lobster, or crab, or poached eggs on butter-sautéed croutons, on a buttered baking and serving platter. Divide the cheese soufflé mixture in mounds over each, top with a sprinkling of grated Swiss cheese, and bake 15 minutes or so in a 425 degree oven. The mounded soufflés will puff to double and brown on top.
Julia Child's Eggplant And Cheese Quiche
Because I love my recipe for pâte brisée ... here's another quiche recipe.
Amount Measure Ingredient -- Preparation Method
-------- ------------ --------------------------------
1/2 pound firm eggplant
1/2 teaspoon salt
Olive oil
2 tablespoons minced shallots -- or
green part of scallions
1 clove garlic -- finely minced
1/3 cup grated Parmesan and Swiss -- combined
1 pinch pepper
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 partially baked 8 or 9″ pie shell
1 1/2 tablespoons butter -- cut in 1/4″ bits
1 tablespoon fresh chopped parsley
1/4 teaspoon thyme or herb mixture
3 eggs
1 pinches nutmeg
Salt to taste -- if needed
Peel eggplant and cut in 3/4 inch dice. In bowl, toss eggplant with salt and let stand 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and pat dry with towel.
In large skillet, heat 1/8 inch layer of olive oil. When very hot, but not smoking, add the eggplant. Toss and turn frequently for 4-8 minutes until tender, but not mushy, just lightly browned. Toss in the shallots or scallions and garlic, shaking pan over heat for a minute to cook them.
Turn eggplant mixture into a large sieve set over a bowl to drain off excess oil. Carefully mix the eggplant with the parsley, herbs and 1/2 the cheese. Pour over pastry shell.
In small bowl, beat together the eggs, pepper, nutmeg and cream. Salt mixture if the cooked eggplant doesn't already have enough salt. Pour this mixture over the eggplant in the pastry shell.
Sprinkle with remaining cheese and dot with butter. Bake in a preheated 375 degree oven about 30 minutes or until puffed and brown.
Amount Measure Ingredient -- Preparation Method
-------- ------------ --------------------------------
1/2 pound firm eggplant
1/2 teaspoon salt
Olive oil
2 tablespoons minced shallots -- or
green part of scallions
1 clove garlic -- finely minced
1/3 cup grated Parmesan and Swiss -- combined
1 pinch pepper
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 partially baked 8 or 9″ pie shell
1 1/2 tablespoons butter -- cut in 1/4″ bits
1 tablespoon fresh chopped parsley
1/4 teaspoon thyme or herb mixture
3 eggs
1 pinches nutmeg
Salt to taste -- if needed
Peel eggplant and cut in 3/4 inch dice. In bowl, toss eggplant with salt and let stand 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and pat dry with towel.
In large skillet, heat 1/8 inch layer of olive oil. When very hot, but not smoking, add the eggplant. Toss and turn frequently for 4-8 minutes until tender, but not mushy, just lightly browned. Toss in the shallots or scallions and garlic, shaking pan over heat for a minute to cook them.
Turn eggplant mixture into a large sieve set over a bowl to drain off excess oil. Carefully mix the eggplant with the parsley, herbs and 1/2 the cheese. Pour over pastry shell.
In small bowl, beat together the eggs, pepper, nutmeg and cream. Salt mixture if the cooked eggplant doesn't already have enough salt. Pour this mixture over the eggplant in the pastry shell.
Sprinkle with remaining cheese and dot with butter. Bake in a preheated 375 degree oven about 30 minutes or until puffed and brown.
Pork and veal stuffing [for Stuffed Boneless Duck]
Have the pork, veal, and pork fat ground together finely.
2 tablespoons butter
1 onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup port, Madeira, or cognac
3/4 pound each lean pork and lean veal
1/2 pound fresh pork fat
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
Big pinch ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 clove garlic, mashed (optional)
1. In a small skillet, melt the butter and cook the onion for 8 minutes or until it is translucent but not brown. Scrape it into a bowl.
2. Pour the port, Madeira, or cognac into the skillet and boil it down until reduced by half. Scrape it into the bowl; leave to cool.
3. Add the pork, veal, and pork fat mixture, eggs, salt, pepper, allspice, thyme, and garlic, if using. Beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture lightens in texture and is thoroughly blended. Saute a small spoon of the stuffing and taste it. Then beat in whatever additions you feel are necessary. It should be perfectly flavored. If not using immediately, cover and refrigerate. Adapted from “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,’’ Volume One.
2 tablespoons butter
1 onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup port, Madeira, or cognac
3/4 pound each lean pork and lean veal
1/2 pound fresh pork fat
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
Big pinch ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 clove garlic, mashed (optional)
1. In a small skillet, melt the butter and cook the onion for 8 minutes or until it is translucent but not brown. Scrape it into a bowl.
2. Pour the port, Madeira, or cognac into the skillet and boil it down until reduced by half. Scrape it into the bowl; leave to cool.
3. Add the pork, veal, and pork fat mixture, eggs, salt, pepper, allspice, thyme, and garlic, if using. Beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture lightens in texture and is thoroughly blended. Saute a small spoon of the stuffing and taste it. Then beat in whatever additions you feel are necessary. It should be perfectly flavored. If not using immediately, cover and refrigerate. Adapted from “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,’’ Volume One.
Pate de canard en croute (if you dare) (Boned stuffed duck baked in a pastry crust)
What I want to try next--inspired by Julia Child.
PASTRY ** THIS IS ESSENTIALLY THE SAME AS QUICHE PASTRY, AKA PATE BRISÉE
6 cups flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup vegetable shortening
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
2 eggs
About 2/3 cup cold water
Extra flour (for sprinkling)
1. In a big bowl, place flour, salt, sugar, butter, and shortening. Rub the flour and fat together rapidly between the tips of your fingers until the fat is broken into pieces the size of oatmeal flakes. Do not overdo this step as the fat will be blended more thoroughly later.
2. Add the water and blend quickly with one hand, fingers held together and slightly cupped, as you rapidly gather the dough into a mass. Sprinkle up to 3 tablespoons more water by droplets over any unmassed remains and add them to the main body of the dough. Press the dough firmly into a roughly shaped ball. It should just hold together and be pilable, not damp and sticky.
3. Place the dough on a lightly floured board. With the heel of one hand, not the palm, which is too warm, rapidly press the pastry by the two spoonful bits down on the board and away from you in a firm, quick smear of about 6 inches. This constitutes the final blending of fat and flour, or fraisage.
4. With a scraper or spatula, gather the dough again into a mass. Knead it briefly into a fairly smooth round ball. Divide into 2 pieces - 2/3 and 1/3. Sprinkle them lightly with flour and wrap in waxed paper. Place in the freezer for 1 hour or until the dough is firm but not congealed, or refrigerate for 2 hours.
DUCK
5-pound roaster duckling
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
Pinch of ground allspice
2 tablespoons cognac
2 tablespoons port
2 diced canned truffles and their juice (optional)
4 cups pork and veal stuffing (see recipe)
3 tablespoons cooking oil
1. Cut a deep slit down the back of the bird from the neck to the tail to expose the backbone. With a small, sharp knife, its edge always cutting against the bone, scrape and cut the flesh from the carcass bones down one side of the bird, pulling the flesh away from the carcass with your fingers as you cut. When you come to the ball joints connecting the wings and the second joints to the carcass, sever them, and continue down the carcass until you reach the ridge of the breast where skin and bone meet. You must be careful here, as the skin is thin and easily slit.
2. Repeat the same operation on the other side of the bird. By the time you have completed half of this, the carcass frame, dangling legs, wings, and skin will appear to be an unrecognizable mass of confusion, and you will wonder how in the world any sense can be made of it at all. But just continue cutting against the bone, and not slitting any skin, and all will come out as it should. When you finally arrive at the ridge of the breastbone on this opposite side, stop again. Lift the carcass frame and cut very closely against the ridge of the breastbone to free the carcass, but not to slit the thin skin covering the breastbone. Chop off the wings at the elbows, to leave just the upper wing bones attached.
3. Arrange this mass of skin and flesh on a board, flesh side up. You will now see, protruding from the flesh, the pair of ball joints of the wings and of the two second joints. Scrape the meat from the bones of the wings and pull out the bones. Repeat for the second joints, severing them from the ball joints of the drumsticks; the drumstick bones may be left in place if you wish. Discard any bits of fat adhering to the flesh.
4. Slice off the thickest layers of the breast and thigh meat, and cut into 3/8-inch cubes. Place them in a bowl. Add salt, pepper, cognac, pork, and the truffles and their juice, if using. Roll up the duck, place it in a bowl, and refrigerate.
5. Add the pork and veal stuffing to the duck meat.
6. Spread the boned duck on a board, skin-side down. Heap the stuffing in the center and shape it into a loaf. Bring the duck skin up over the loaf to enclose it completely. Sew it in place with a trussing needle and white string. Make 3 or 4 ties around the circumference of the duck to give it a cylindrical shape.
7. In a large skillet, heat the oil until it is almost smoking. Brown the duck slowly on all sides. Remove and leave to cool. The trussing strings remain on the duck to hold its shape while baking.
ASSEMBLY
Flour (for sprinkling)
1 egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon cold water
1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Have on hand a large rimmed baking sheet.
2. Roll out 2/3 of the dough into a 1/8-inch thick oval. Lay it on the baking sheet. Place the duck on the oval, breast up. Bring the pastry up and around the duck, patting it into place. Roll out the remaining 1/3 of the dough to 1/8-inch thick. Cut it into an oval to fit over the top of the duck. Paint the edges of the bottom pastry oval with the beaten egg. Press the top oval in place. Flute or pinch the edges together to seal them.
3. Using the remaining pastry, make circles or ovals with a 1 1/2-inch cookie cutter. Press fan-shaped lines into them with the back of a knife. Paint the top pastry with beaten egg and press the pastry cut-outs over it in a decorative pattern. Paint with beaten egg.
4. Make a 1/8-inch hole in the center of the pastry and insert a brown paper or foil funnel; this will allow steam to escape.
5. Place the duck in the middle of the oven. Turn the oven heat down to 350 degrees. Bake the duck for 2 hours or until a meat thermometer inserted through the funnel registers 180 degrees.
6. Remove the duck from the oven and leave to cool for several hours, then chill.
7. Cut around the top crust just under the seam of the pastry oval. Lift off the oval carefully so as not to break it. The duck will have shrunk from the crust during baking, so you can lift it out of the bottom crust. Remove the circular trussing strings from around the duck, then cut and pull out the sewing strings underneath the duck. Put the duck back into the bottom crust and replace the top pastry oval. At the table, either remove the duck from the crust and carve it or cut straight down through the crust and through the duck, making crosswise slices of duck with crust. Adapted from “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,’’ Volume One.
PASTRY ** THIS IS ESSENTIALLY THE SAME AS QUICHE PASTRY, AKA PATE BRISÉE
6 cups flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup vegetable shortening
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
2 eggs
About 2/3 cup cold water
Extra flour (for sprinkling)
1. In a big bowl, place flour, salt, sugar, butter, and shortening. Rub the flour and fat together rapidly between the tips of your fingers until the fat is broken into pieces the size of oatmeal flakes. Do not overdo this step as the fat will be blended more thoroughly later.
2. Add the water and blend quickly with one hand, fingers held together and slightly cupped, as you rapidly gather the dough into a mass. Sprinkle up to 3 tablespoons more water by droplets over any unmassed remains and add them to the main body of the dough. Press the dough firmly into a roughly shaped ball. It should just hold together and be pilable, not damp and sticky.
3. Place the dough on a lightly floured board. With the heel of one hand, not the palm, which is too warm, rapidly press the pastry by the two spoonful bits down on the board and away from you in a firm, quick smear of about 6 inches. This constitutes the final blending of fat and flour, or fraisage.
4. With a scraper or spatula, gather the dough again into a mass. Knead it briefly into a fairly smooth round ball. Divide into 2 pieces - 2/3 and 1/3. Sprinkle them lightly with flour and wrap in waxed paper. Place in the freezer for 1 hour or until the dough is firm but not congealed, or refrigerate for 2 hours.
DUCK
5-pound roaster duckling
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
Pinch of ground allspice
2 tablespoons cognac
2 tablespoons port
2 diced canned truffles and their juice (optional)
4 cups pork and veal stuffing (see recipe)
3 tablespoons cooking oil
1. Cut a deep slit down the back of the bird from the neck to the tail to expose the backbone. With a small, sharp knife, its edge always cutting against the bone, scrape and cut the flesh from the carcass bones down one side of the bird, pulling the flesh away from the carcass with your fingers as you cut. When you come to the ball joints connecting the wings and the second joints to the carcass, sever them, and continue down the carcass until you reach the ridge of the breast where skin and bone meet. You must be careful here, as the skin is thin and easily slit.
2. Repeat the same operation on the other side of the bird. By the time you have completed half of this, the carcass frame, dangling legs, wings, and skin will appear to be an unrecognizable mass of confusion, and you will wonder how in the world any sense can be made of it at all. But just continue cutting against the bone, and not slitting any skin, and all will come out as it should. When you finally arrive at the ridge of the breastbone on this opposite side, stop again. Lift the carcass frame and cut very closely against the ridge of the breastbone to free the carcass, but not to slit the thin skin covering the breastbone. Chop off the wings at the elbows, to leave just the upper wing bones attached.
3. Arrange this mass of skin and flesh on a board, flesh side up. You will now see, protruding from the flesh, the pair of ball joints of the wings and of the two second joints. Scrape the meat from the bones of the wings and pull out the bones. Repeat for the second joints, severing them from the ball joints of the drumsticks; the drumstick bones may be left in place if you wish. Discard any bits of fat adhering to the flesh.
4. Slice off the thickest layers of the breast and thigh meat, and cut into 3/8-inch cubes. Place them in a bowl. Add salt, pepper, cognac, pork, and the truffles and their juice, if using. Roll up the duck, place it in a bowl, and refrigerate.
5. Add the pork and veal stuffing to the duck meat.
6. Spread the boned duck on a board, skin-side down. Heap the stuffing in the center and shape it into a loaf. Bring the duck skin up over the loaf to enclose it completely. Sew it in place with a trussing needle and white string. Make 3 or 4 ties around the circumference of the duck to give it a cylindrical shape.
7. In a large skillet, heat the oil until it is almost smoking. Brown the duck slowly on all sides. Remove and leave to cool. The trussing strings remain on the duck to hold its shape while baking.
ASSEMBLY
Flour (for sprinkling)
1 egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon cold water
1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Have on hand a large rimmed baking sheet.
2. Roll out 2/3 of the dough into a 1/8-inch thick oval. Lay it on the baking sheet. Place the duck on the oval, breast up. Bring the pastry up and around the duck, patting it into place. Roll out the remaining 1/3 of the dough to 1/8-inch thick. Cut it into an oval to fit over the top of the duck. Paint the edges of the bottom pastry oval with the beaten egg. Press the top oval in place. Flute or pinch the edges together to seal them.
3. Using the remaining pastry, make circles or ovals with a 1 1/2-inch cookie cutter. Press fan-shaped lines into them with the back of a knife. Paint the top pastry with beaten egg and press the pastry cut-outs over it in a decorative pattern. Paint with beaten egg.
4. Make a 1/8-inch hole in the center of the pastry and insert a brown paper or foil funnel; this will allow steam to escape.
5. Place the duck in the middle of the oven. Turn the oven heat down to 350 degrees. Bake the duck for 2 hours or until a meat thermometer inserted through the funnel registers 180 degrees.
6. Remove the duck from the oven and leave to cool for several hours, then chill.
7. Cut around the top crust just under the seam of the pastry oval. Lift off the oval carefully so as not to break it. The duck will have shrunk from the crust during baking, so you can lift it out of the bottom crust. Remove the circular trussing strings from around the duck, then cut and pull out the sewing strings underneath the duck. Put the duck back into the bottom crust and replace the top pastry oval. At the table, either remove the duck from the crust and carve it or cut straight down through the crust and through the duck, making crosswise slices of duck with crust. Adapted from “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,’’ Volume One.
Monday, November 2, 2009
Pan-roasted Brussels Sprouts in Fleur de Sel wth Cayenne-Caramelized Pine Nuts
Ingredients:
brussels sprouts, halved
olive oil
fleur de sel [sea salt]
pine nuts
2 TBS butter
1 TBS brown sugar
1/2 TBS cayenne pepper
couscous
chicken broth powder
Instructions:
1. Toss the brussels sprouts in olive oil, and place cut-side down in a pan. Sprinkle with fleur de sel. Cover and cook on low heat until the sides are brownish, about 5 minutes. Check that they are cooked. Then, remove the cover and cook on a higher heat (medium), tossing with spatula till round sides are also brownish.
2. Melt butter in a pan, add brown sugar, then pine nuts, then cayenne, coating evenly. Remove from heat and place in roasting pan. Roast at a low setting in the oven for a few minutes. Remove from oven and let cool a little bit, then separate when the mass becomes crunchy.
3. Place on a bed of couscous.
brussels sprouts, halved
olive oil
fleur de sel [sea salt]
pine nuts
2 TBS butter
1 TBS brown sugar
1/2 TBS cayenne pepper
couscous
chicken broth powder
Instructions:
1. Toss the brussels sprouts in olive oil, and place cut-side down in a pan. Sprinkle with fleur de sel. Cover and cook on low heat until the sides are brownish, about 5 minutes. Check that they are cooked. Then, remove the cover and cook on a higher heat (medium), tossing with spatula till round sides are also brownish.
2. Melt butter in a pan, add brown sugar, then pine nuts, then cayenne, coating evenly. Remove from heat and place in roasting pan. Roast at a low setting in the oven for a few minutes. Remove from oven and let cool a little bit, then separate when the mass becomes crunchy.
3. Place on a bed of couscous.
Monday, September 21, 2009
Banana Curry
Ingredients:
3-4 firm, not too ripe bananas, in large pieces
1 cauliflower (in small pieces)
1 medium onion, chopped
cashews or peanuts
garam masala (Indian spice powder)
1 can coconut milk
1/2 can water
chili pepper flakes or powder
salt
Instructions:
1. Heat oil in a pot. Add onions and cook till translucent. Add garam masala, salt, chili pepper. Add the cauliflower and cook, approx. 20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, deep fry the banana pieces in a pan with quite a bit of oil, until slightly brown.
3. When the bananas are done, either add to the pot (to make the curry sweeter) or put on the serving plates (if you think the bananas might fall apart).
4. Roast the nuts in the frying pan until brown, then put on serving plates.
5. Serve the curry over the bananas, nuts and rice!
Total cooking time: approx. 20 minutes.
Other things to add to the curry: chicken, fish, shrimp ...
3-4 firm, not too ripe bananas, in large pieces
1 cauliflower (in small pieces)
1 medium onion, chopped
cashews or peanuts
garam masala (Indian spice powder)
1 can coconut milk
1/2 can water
chili pepper flakes or powder
salt
Instructions:
1. Heat oil in a pot. Add onions and cook till translucent. Add garam masala, salt, chili pepper. Add the cauliflower and cook, approx. 20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, deep fry the banana pieces in a pan with quite a bit of oil, until slightly brown.
3. When the bananas are done, either add to the pot (to make the curry sweeter) or put on the serving plates (if you think the bananas might fall apart).
4. Roast the nuts in the frying pan until brown, then put on serving plates.
5. Serve the curry over the bananas, nuts and rice!
Total cooking time: approx. 20 minutes.
Other things to add to the curry: chicken, fish, shrimp ...
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Pear Pie with Lattice Top
Cook Time: 35 minutes
Ingredients:
* pastry for 2-crust pie [see crust recipe for Spinach and Mushroom Quiche; add sugar]
* 5 peeled, sliced fresh pears
* 1 cup sugar
* 1/4 cup flour
* 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel
* 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
* 1/8 teaspoon salt
* 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
* 2 tablespoons butter, cut in small pieces
* glaze [1 egg, 2 TBS milk]
Preparation:
Line a 9-inch pie plate with pastry. Add the sliced pears. Combine sugar, flour, lemon peel, and seasonings; sprinkle over the pears. Drizzle with the lemon juice then dot with the butter. Make a lattice top; flute edges. Whip 1 egg with 2 TBS milk and glaze pie with it. Cover edge of pie with a strip of foil. Bake at 425° [= "7"] for 25 minutes. Remove foil and bake about 10 minutes longer.
*To make a lattice top crust, cut rolled out dough into 1/2-inch-wide strips. Arrange 5 to 6 dough strips across top of filling. Form the lattice by arranging more dough strips at right angle to first set of dough strips, weaving the strips if you wish. Trim dough strips even with the overhang on bottom crust. Tuck ends of dough strips and overhang under; press to seal then crimp the edges.
Ingredients:
* pastry for 2-crust pie [see crust recipe for Spinach and Mushroom Quiche; add sugar]
* 5 peeled, sliced fresh pears
* 1 cup sugar
* 1/4 cup flour
* 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel
* 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
* 1/8 teaspoon salt
* 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
* 2 tablespoons butter, cut in small pieces
* glaze [1 egg, 2 TBS milk]
Preparation:
Line a 9-inch pie plate with pastry. Add the sliced pears. Combine sugar, flour, lemon peel, and seasonings; sprinkle over the pears. Drizzle with the lemon juice then dot with the butter. Make a lattice top; flute edges. Whip 1 egg with 2 TBS milk and glaze pie with it. Cover edge of pie with a strip of foil. Bake at 425° [= "7"] for 25 minutes. Remove foil and bake about 10 minutes longer.
*To make a lattice top crust, cut rolled out dough into 1/2-inch-wide strips. Arrange 5 to 6 dough strips across top of filling. Form the lattice by arranging more dough strips at right angle to first set of dough strips, weaving the strips if you wish. Trim dough strips even with the overhang on bottom crust. Tuck ends of dough strips and overhang under; press to seal then crimp the edges.
Friday, August 28, 2009
Spinach and Mushroom Quiche
Ingredients:
CRUST
400 ml flour (= 1.7 cups)
200 g unsalted, cold butter (= 7 oz, or 14 TBS)
3-4 TBS cold water
2 tsp salt
FILLING
1/2 kilo fresh spinach OR 10 oz i.e. 1/2 package frozen spinach
1/4 kilo mushrooms
dash of stock powder
1 TBS vegetable oil
3 eggs
250 ml cream
2 tsp salt
cayenne pepper
nutmeg
1/2 to 1 cup Emmenthaler cheese, grated
Instructions:
1. Mix flour and salt in a large mixing bowl with a fork. Cut butter into small pieces, add to bowl. Then, using 2 knives as scissors, cut the butter into the flour until coarse crumbs are formed. Add water spoon by spoon and mix with fork until the dough just holds together. Press into the quiche dish and up the sides. Refrigerate for about 1 hour (while making the filling).
2. Preheat oven to 375 degrees (6 or 7 on the knob).
2. Cook the spinach in water and a dash of stock. Drain and squeeze until completely dry. Alternatively, thaw the frozen spinach and squeeze dry. Chop into little pieces.
3. Thinly slice the mushrooms in 1 TBS vegetable oil until golden brown and all the liquid is gone.
4. Beat the eggs in a large mixing bowl. Add cream, then salt, cayenne pepper, nutmeg and spinach and mushrooms. Add 3/4 of the cheese. Mix well.
5. Pour the filling into the quiche crust. Sprinkle remaining 1/4 of the cheese on top.
6. Bake for about 35-40 minutes at 6 or 7 gas setting (or 400 degrees). The quiche is done when an inserted knife comes out clean.
** NOTE TO SELF: the first time I made it, I was too conservative on the salt and the cayenne. Add more of both next time!
CRUST
400 ml flour (= 1.7 cups)
200 g unsalted, cold butter (= 7 oz, or 14 TBS)
3-4 TBS cold water
2 tsp salt
FILLING
1/2 kilo fresh spinach OR 10 oz i.e. 1/2 package frozen spinach
1/4 kilo mushrooms
dash of stock powder
1 TBS vegetable oil
3 eggs
250 ml cream
2 tsp salt
cayenne pepper
nutmeg
1/2 to 1 cup Emmenthaler cheese, grated
Instructions:
1. Mix flour and salt in a large mixing bowl with a fork. Cut butter into small pieces, add to bowl. Then, using 2 knives as scissors, cut the butter into the flour until coarse crumbs are formed. Add water spoon by spoon and mix with fork until the dough just holds together. Press into the quiche dish and up the sides. Refrigerate for about 1 hour (while making the filling).
2. Preheat oven to 375 degrees (6 or 7 on the knob).
2. Cook the spinach in water and a dash of stock. Drain and squeeze until completely dry. Alternatively, thaw the frozen spinach and squeeze dry. Chop into little pieces.
3. Thinly slice the mushrooms in 1 TBS vegetable oil until golden brown and all the liquid is gone.
4. Beat the eggs in a large mixing bowl. Add cream, then salt, cayenne pepper, nutmeg and spinach and mushrooms. Add 3/4 of the cheese. Mix well.
5. Pour the filling into the quiche crust. Sprinkle remaining 1/4 of the cheese on top.
6. Bake for about 35-40 minutes at 6 or 7 gas setting (or 400 degrees). The quiche is done when an inserted knife comes out clean.
** NOTE TO SELF: the first time I made it, I was too conservative on the salt and the cayenne. Add more of both next time!
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